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Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Lately

The consistent blogging thing is not something I excel at and I'm starting to have panics about all the details I'm forgetting to write about and how 80-year-old Pia will be sad that she doesn't have sufficient documentation of her young and wild days as hooligan in foreign lands. So I'm going to cheat and make a little list of things that have happened lately so I don't have to try and recall all the beautiful sensory details that would enable each tid bit to become full fledged, stand alone stories.

-My projects and work here are rolling on through. Coming in as a high school graduate and professional dork, I was really worried about being able to contribute anything of value whatsoever to the programs and projects here. I've actually been pleasantly surprised. The Soukhya Project, which is a domestic violence intervention program in Bangalore that focuses on educating and empowering primary health care providers to accurately and sensitively screen women for domestic violence and then provide victims with references to support services, asked me to redesign their project posters. After the training of the primary health care providers, the Soukhya team does field visits to the health centers and drops off job aids and puts up posters. However, the current posters were borrowed from another project, and didn't have enough focus on the Soukhya projects goals. So I've had the opportunity to design three new posters for the project, two with the target audience of victims of violence, and one targeted at doctors and nurses, reminding them to screen and treat and care. I did concept design, and mapped out the scripts and took photos and made draft after draft, having feedback meetings and emails with the team in between each round, and then I made changes based on their input. I presented a set of drafts to some champion nurses in the program and got their feedback and after all that, I have a final set. A final set in English...and now they need to be in Kannada. So that's my current battle. But it is amazing to know that my work and my photos will go up in every health center in Bangalore one day soon.
       The other project that brought me a lot of joy is one that I had a very small part in. The Soukhya project has teamed up with a tech company called Dimagi to develop a job aid application that will aid the nurses in screening women. This is just the pilot for what we hope could be a city wide project. The idea is that 10 champion nurses within the programs will receive phones that have this app on it. The app has audio, images and text that help the nurse go through the screening protocol and record the woman's details straight into the projects database. Before the phones, the nurses would have to use a paper calendar type job aid while screening to help them remember and follow protocol, and then record the woman's information in a paper register that was then collected by the Soukhya team every so often. If this project works, it could mean instant collection of data into the project data base, with different cases stored within the phone confidentially using the patients Thai or OPD card number, so that if the woman makes a second visit, the nurse can simply look her up. The app also records which program the nurse recommended through the referral network so the team can keep track of whether woman are getting the right help and if the support programs are receiving woman and helping them. It could streamline and modernize a very challenging project. And I helped design the images in the app. It's a tiny part of the whole process but there was something amazingly rewarding about sitting in a public health center and watching a nurse get trained to use a revolutionary job aid. Watching her click through the app and get to a question that is paired with a visual cue, a visual cue that I created. I'm sure this will change when I'm a professional in some sort of career, but right just being a tiny part of a project like this means the world to me.
    I could write all day about the other things I've been doing, but I just wanted to share these two because I feel as if they have been the most rewarding. Which is hard to say because sometimes I just feel like having the opportunity to be here and work with who I do is the greatest reward. Just being here.

A draft...
(Anita is the star of this poster set! And don't worry, she was never injured)


- I attended a super cute Birthday party. Vishy, who is the head of the Soukhya project, has a one year old daughter named Stuthi and Emily and I were invited to her first birthday. Until that sweet under the sea themed party, I had no idea how big a deal one is here. It does make sense though, life expectancy after the age of one improves dramatically. If a child can make it through a year, they are much more likely to make it through many. So for little Stuthi, a whole hall was decorated in under the sea themed paraphernalia and in one corner there were 30 glass bowls, each with two little fish in them. Talk about cool party favors. I was convinced that I could keep a fish in my Annexe room and tell Sister Bertha it was a symbolic representation of the loaves and the fishes or the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus or Noah or something biblical but Emily talked me out of it. Too bad though, woulda named them Jeeves and Wooster. The party was very sweet though, about a hundred people probably came, with all the family from near and far and Stuthi was passed about and pinched and kissed and she never cried. I never really had the big family experiencing growing up as a first gen to immigrant parents, but it doesn't take much to make me see it's value. The mermaid barbie cake was a nice gesture, but cake or not, it was obvious that this little girl was so incredibly loved.



-Elections mean something very different here. The state of Karnataka has been gearing up for elections and in the weeks leading up to election day people have given me all sorts of warnings. There was bomb that went off in front of one of the party offices in Bangalore and this past Sunday was the election day and every store and restaurant was closed from Friday onwards. Two weeks before the election every business that sold alcohol had 'election hours' and closed early. Four days before the election there was an alcohol moratorium, and no businesses across the whole state were serving anything remotely alcoholic. I was confused as to why elections, of all things, would prompt such a premature and extreme change in society, why was I  being told to stay indoors and avoid busy places? Elections to me mean casting a vote, hoping for the best, letting your voice be heard, consoling one another if they go wrong and celebrating if they go right. But it's a little different here. India is the world's largest democracy but it doesn't mean they have it all sorted out. State elections can be a very dangerous time. People take their beliefs and build them into bombs, they use politics and their frustration as a chance to get hammered and cause accidents and violence. Alcohol sales coming to halt is the governments effort to curb the violence. So that if there are riots they are ruled by opinion and not booze. So how real is all this? I thought they were being cautious because something could, potentially happen. But I was wrong. Things do actually happen. One of my colleagues was leaving the St. Johns campus on his motorcycle in the days leading up to the election and was hit by a drunk rickshaw driver.  It was 3 pm and he fractured his leg. A friend who has been staying in family friends house while the family is on vacation heard a knock at the door one day. It was the representatives of one of the politicians in the area. They told him they wanted the property empty so they could sell it to support the campaign. He closed the door. The next day at work he told the stories to his co-workers, and when they heard the politicians name, they told him to get out. The politician is widely known to be extremely corrupt and to 'eliminate' the things that come in between him and what he wants. My friend went home and packed his stuff and moved to a cousins house. Later that day he got a call from the politician who addressed him in sickly sweet tones as Mr. and asked if the house had been vacated, my friend said yes and then lied, saying he was out of town. The politician then said he was glad there was no "conflict of interest between them" and then hung up. This shit is real. I usually feel very safe walking around Koramangala, but when I went out to get groceries on election weekend I was greeted by deserted streets. The people who were out and about looked like they didn't want to be there or be seen. And I was one of the only women on the streets. I got my yogurt and then took cover. Democracy takes strange shapes.

-It's hot. Like forreal. I wake up each morning before my alarm goes off and even before I have to pee. I wake up because as the sun comes up, my feeble ceiling fan becomes insufficient at keeping me from sweating myself awake. I live in a little box with a bathroom, and my lonely window faces the rising sun and takes in sun for most of the day. My room heats up like an oven, clothes that I wash don't even bother to ring out dry overnight. Sometimes I'm sweating even before I finish my cold water bucket shower. I have to move around slowly after I get dressed in the morning otherwise I sweat into my clean clothes. When I first arrived, I was annoyed and confused as to why everyone walked so slowly, but I've learned that if I try and move at my preferred pace it'll be like swimming in my own sweat rather than walking. Bangalore isn't humid, just a dusty, dry, and polluted hot. At the end of the day the whites of my eyes are yellow from the sun and the particulate matter that is constantly being blown into them. It rains occasionally, but only at night because the days are so hot and dry that there isn't a great enough change in pressure for the rain to fall. When it does rain, I put on shorts and a tank top and sneak my scantily clad self up to the roof of the Annexe to stand in the rain and encourage the core temperature of my body to come down. I usually shower afterwards though because there is a high chance of it being rather acidic. It is hot. And here's the kicker, monsoon season, yeah, that starts right after I leave. I'm a whiner but believe it or not, Bangalore is one of the coolest cities in India. If I lived in Delhi, I wouldn't even wake up, someone would just come into my room in the morning and find a large, overcooked baguette in there because I would just bake like dough in the oven.


-Emily's mom is here and we went to Mysore together and I love it and her and it was so great it's unreal. Emily has been my saving grace here, my guide, my mentor at work, and most of all, my really good friend. We have an 11 year age difference which might prompt some people to say that we are unusual friends, but nothing feels unusual about it at all. Emily is incredibly lovely, and to no one's surprise, her mom Sue is equally as lovely. They are spending time traveling together, but before the travel could happen, Emily had to work over the weekend to make up for the work she would miss. So I gladly offered to 'mom-sit' though it wasn't like mom sitting at all, it was like hanging out with a cool lady. We hired Suneeta's most trusted driver, Golpalan, and took a day trip to Mysore together. Mysore was beautiful  and green and is the second cleanest city in India, and I loved it so. I didn't realize how much I missed moms until Sue arrived. Just the presence of a mom and having that kind of energy around. It was a truly lovely day, and a lovely few days in the company of the beautiful relationship that Emily and Sue have. The only downside was that it made me wish more than anything that my own mom could be here, in India, exploring with me. One day.

Pictures of Mysore:

 Sue! 
 The Mysore Palace










Friday, May 3, 2013

True Friends

With a month left in a gap year that has honestly gone so differently and so much better than expected, I would like to take the time to acknowledge the true friends who have stuck with me throughout this journey. I've made friends on farms, in bars, in the office, on the street and at the supermarket this year, and I've had to leave many of them. But every time I leave a place, there are a few faithful friends that come with me. There are always the little buddies who have stood by my side and been my constant companions (cue "Lean On Me"). In no particular order, I present to you 'Pia's True Travel Homies'
(Disclaimer: Inappropriate and personal details have been included, not to mention that this post serves no real purpose in the universe ever)
Baby wipes. It's like a tissue but moist. And it smells like a baby. Genius. 
Toilet paper. Because you just never know...
Scissors and tape. Tape and scissors. You know how every time you travel you're like "Golly, I wish I had some scissors. Or some tape. Or both". No? You don't know? Well I do and now I bring them everywhere. 
An excessive amount of birth control. Trying to keep this blog PG but ladies lets be honest, a period in 108 degree weather? Please, I don't have time for that nonsense. Also, I bet it's super hard to fit a baby in a back pack with all your other stuff....just saying
The sentimental Leatherman. I love it just as a multi-tool but I love it more because it was given to me as a graduation gift by my ex-boyfriend's dad. Thanks Dann! Also, it's good to be the girl with the bottle opener when you're trying to make friends. 
Hanky! Won't go anywhere without you. Wipe off the sweat, dry my hands, pick up something hot, tie it around my head to look cool while hiking, mop up some blood, anything! Just make sure you wash it...

Feces! They are everywhere but not on your Purell fresh hands
Chapstick. Chapstick. Chapstick. Tweezers. End of story. 

"A real lady always carries a pen"
(cite Celia Greene) 
Mama took it around the world and I'm just trying to live up to the legacy. Bertha the front zip Lowe Alpine is the tetanus shot to my rusty nail. Also, I promise I was wearing clothes in this picture
Rainbows. Had em for five years and I don't intend to give em up...ever. The picture on the left is the color they used to be. I'm not bothered. 
Last but not least, the pocket photo album. The farther I go the more I feel that home is about who and not where. So I like to carry who with me. I have 15 pictures of my cats, my family and my friends that I leave next to my bed, rotating the open pages every few days so I get to see everyone over the course of my trip. It's a little extra space in my bag but it's worth it every time. 

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

A Visitor to India


            Let’s be honest, I’ve been really bad at keeping up with this blog lately. And it’s my fault but I’m going to try and explain why as well. I think one of the reasons that it’s been so difficult to write and write well and document all the incredible moments that I will one day beg my mind to remember is because of the intensity of being here. India is a place so alive and vibrant that it requires a huge amount of energy to live in it each day. And sometimes it’s positive energy and light and color and lots of food and friendly faces, and inspiration and admiration for the things that are being done and the people doing them. But it can also be an assault on the senses, and a forced acknowledgement of the dark and miserable things, of the hopeless and broken, and it can imbed in you a profound fear for the future. And the contrast between these two visions is constant, one day can be gold and the next can be soaked in oil and burning. Living in an environment that is constantly in flux does teach me a lot, but it’s also so exhausting. It’s also funny the things that get to me. I’m working with domestic violence interventions, making visits to health centers and hearing stories and learning about the insurmountable issues regarding funding and manpower and advocacy. But my job rarely bothers me or gets under my skin, because I’m the youngest and most unqualified member of an incredibly dedicated team whom I look up to, and watching them work is rewarding, even if what they are working against is hard to face sometimes. No, it’s the funny little things that probably have some symbolic meaning or represent a calling of my subconscious or are a reflection of my own shortcomings or some nonsense like that. All I know is that there are little things that sometimes mess with me and find a way into my head.

            I think about trash a lot. I know mentioned this in connection with Coorg, but it’s still a thing. Municipal waste management is an issue in India, but it’s also a global issue that isn’t slowing down or really being sorted out. The piles of trash and burning waste and cows and dogs sitting in and eating the trash and walking through the trash is something I see everyday but I’ve also refused to let my soul be buried in trash and the stress of seeing it. But the mentality regarding waste does find a way to weasel it’s way into me. How can this be something that we are ok with? How come everyone isn’t freaking out about this? Rivers are burning and nothing is biodegradable and it’s all just piling up and it has no where to go and we will end up buried in it. And though I keep my visual panic to a minimum, it’s still very real for me. And I think it’s important. America generates a huge amount of waste, and I think we’re just better at hiding it than India, even if we’re not actually better at dealing with it. Seeing the waste here and moving through it each day is like a wakeup call, saying this is what the world is like, it’s just that here you have to walk through it. Whereas at home someone comes and takes it away and hides it away and maybe recycles. Just imagine if you had to personally deal with all the waste your household produced. You could compost the food waste, but then what about the plastic and foam and rubber and oils and batteries and appliances. A lot of homes and restaurants here do manage their own waste because no one comes to get it. They dump the trash round the back or even out front, and the dogs and cows eat the things that are close to edible and then every few days the whole thing just gets lit up. It’s easy to place blame and say things like ‘carcinogens’ and ‘air pollution’ and ‘recycle’ but I honestly don’t know what I would do if one day someone stopped coming to get it. If the government stopped taking responsibility for my trash. If I had to deal with everything I threw out, if it just sat in front of my home. Would I burn it? Would I take it and dump it on the empty lot down the block? I might.

            I also have a problem with surrendering independence. Which is a hard thing to explain without sounding snotty but that’s a risk I’m willing to take. When you’re at home, you constantly wish someone would do the menial tasks that feel like a waste of your time. But beware, those will be the random little things you miss the most. I had a weird day last week and I was struggling to explain to a friend why I was in a gray mood and the best I could up with was just that I was tired of having to pay a man to get anything I needed. I have two buckets in my bathroom, one that I fill up with water and use to shower with and one that I use to wash my laundry. Delicates and workout clothes and some kurtas can be easily washed in a bucket and I do roughly two loads a week and then hang up all my stuff on my shower curtain and towel rack. But some of my nicer kurtas and patialas just can’t be done in a bucket and the stuff I wear to work has to be clean and ironed. So once a week I take a few items to a Laundromat round the corner. This is the second one I’ve tried, because I took a white shirt to the first one, and got it back smelling clean but stained with blood or beetle nut or something. So I moved on. But the man at the new one is grumpy and I just feel so silly taking my clothes in and paying someone to wash my stuff. But the Annexe doesn’t have the resources for washing and doesn’t allow irons and bucket only takes it so far. So, I can wash my workout stuff in my bucket but then where do I get to use it? At the gym, because I can’t run on the street for fear of falling in a sewer and for fear of simply being a woman. And to get my phone and internet stick to work I have to go see a man, and then wait while he serves the men in the shop first, and then wait more while this man calls another man and no one can tell me why I’m waiting and ten minutes turns into half an hour. And at night it’s not safe for me to travel without a man, and definitely not without company of some kind. And I can’t walk or bike, I still have to pay a man to drive me. And half the time I’m paying, someone if trying to rip me off and I don’t like fighting but I end up doing it. And even really lovely male friends and colleagues that I’ve met sometimes drive me crazy with the assumption that I can’t or shouldn’t be or do or go. And I know it sounds ridiculous and I’m complaining about this and most people mean well, and I’m sorry, but some days but not all days, it just drives me crazy.

            However, with every complaint there is the other side of the coin. Every man that I have to pay and all the services that I have to seek out that seem so ridiculous and that I wish I could do myself are jobs. Jobs that people need. Almost every restaurant, from the fancy bars to the little corner joint, have waiters and servers, so one person brings your food and the other person actually spoons out the food onto your plate. And at first it made me really uncomfortable and then Emily pointed out that both those people now have jobs. India is a big place full of people. And I always feel like there are too many people working at the stores I go to, and while I’m shopping an attendant will actively follow me to show me deals and things she/he thinks I might like. But it’s their job and it’s a part of Indian hospitality. I’m often overwhelmed but I really try to remember that hospitality is the name of the game. During field visits to health centers for work, even if the center is teeming with patients, someone who works there will take the time to make and serve our team tea or coffee. Every time I come into the project space in the morning, before they even say hello, my colleagues ask me if I have had breakfast. The friends I’ve made here and families I’ve met and stayed with are always trying to give me everything I need and offer everything they have. So yes, I’m often overwhelmed, and sometimes frustrated, but I’m certainly never bored. Because it seems to me that there are two ways to live here; you can battle your way through each day, fighting to get what you want, to get the price you want and in the time you want, and you can lose a lot. Or you can just live in it, and accept that things will take three days instead of one, and that you live so close and in connection with so many people and forces that it won’t be what you want, it will be what India makes happen. And sometimes I feel like India knows what I want more than I do.