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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

An Education


            The nature of the volunteer opportunity that I have acquired in the Office of the Governor in West Hawaii is such that I cannot really share much of anything that I have been doing with you. This blog is essentially the minutes of my trip, written down and carefully organized by who and where and what and how it felt. And as you can guess, the most enthralling part of working in the Office of the Governor is meeting and handling the constituents who come in there. I have met such extraordinary characters, criminals, and down rights nut cases, but due to the privacy contract I signed upon taking on this volunteer position, I am unable to share any of these people and their problems with you. When I informed my mother of this fact, she simply said “in a few years, with a few different names”. So maybe I’ll do that, better read the fine print on my volunteer agreement first though…
            What I can relate here is everything I’ve been doing outside the office, though that might get boring so I’m narrowing it down to just the things that fit into the school of thought I’ve been entertaining lately. Merely describing our time here does not do the Big Island justice because it’s not as action and adrenaline packed as the cliffs and hikes and jungle adventures we had on the farm on Maui. But it’s certainly been just as exciting. Yes, I work in an office, and yes, I wear shoes everyday. But I also talk to every kind of person you can imagine. And seeing as Barbara has invited us into her life, we’ve become a part of it.
            In any conversation regarding my gap year, the words “travel is important” are almost guaranteed to come up. And after I’d said and heard them enough, I really thought about why I believe that’s true. And what I’ve come up with so far is that I want to travel so that I can collect enough experiences and perspective to help me understand who I am and inspire who I want to be. I feel that to really know myself, I need to know me in comparison to people, lifestyles and places that aren’t me. The concept of self is relative; there is who you are and who you are in contrast to everyone else. You can claim to be extremely adaptable, until you find yourself uncomfortable in a new place, and watch as someone else slides through with ease. And then you can consider how truly adaptable they are, and accept and be content with the fact that you are simply not them, or strive to be more like them. The same can be said for lifestyles you observe, as well as attitudes, morals and practices. When you experience something new, you understand better who you are by accepting what you’re not, or stand inspired, by who you could be.
            Self-financing has definitely made me think about who I’d like to be in terms of how I use resources. Barbara is putting a roof over our heads from the kindness of her heart, but Claire and I are not complete mooches so we’re paying for our own food. Aside from a brief and heavily bullshitted Econ project, I have never done my own food budgeting for a long term plan. And it hasn’t been as easy as you might think. The real reason for that is that Claire and I are a certain type of consumer. We’re not particularly wasteful or greedy; we grew up recycling and being resource conscious, composting and saving leftovers. But we’ve always had a broad and plentiful supply of resources, even if we have been careful with them. Simply put, Claire and I eat like people who have always had enough to eat. We eat like people who have had choices regarding what they want to eat. Because that’s who we are. So as pre-college students with tight budgets from our own hard earned cash, we had to get over the concept of surplus. It’s a very middle class American concept, to have a whole fridge full of food, a whole pantry and shelves and cupboards, from which you can pick and choose what you eat and eat whenever you want. Why not instead shop for just what you need for the week, and buy exactly what you need for the meal, instead of buying the ingredients for every meal ever invented and then just picking the ones you want. Why not eat and shop in such a way that you never throw food out because it’s gone off or sat for too long, because what needs to get eaten does and what doesn’t, doesn’t exist. So we’re learning, and it’s been an education. Lesson one: a lack of surplus does not mean you’ll be hungry.
             The past few weekends, we’ve left Kona to go down South with Barbara to her country house in Captain Cook. For the 30 or so years that she and her family have lived there, at least 10 of those years were spent off the grid. Off the grid living is extremely common here; many people have built their own homes on their own land and they value that seclusion. The house had electricity put in a while back, but still runs on it’s own tank water. There is a huge metal cylinder outside the back kitchen door and all of the water for the house is stored there. Rainwater adds to it occasionally, but for the most part it has to be filled up and then used sparingly. Filling up means you need a friend with a pick up truck and a lot of very large plastic containers. Also, it’s not potable. So drinking water has to be acquired elsewhere. When Claire and I arrived at the house, there were just a few inches left in the tank. We flushed the toilets using old bathwater kept in buckets. Dishes were all sat in one side of the sink to soak, scrubbed, and then set in the other side to all be rinsed in one inch of water. On our way up to the house, we had stopped by the pump and filled up a few large jugs with drinking water. We stayed three days, and on the third day, we were rather anxious to bathe. Barbara filled about one third of the old bathtub with scalding water and I went first. I sat in the hot water and used biodegradable soup and then washed my hair and rinsed it by using a cup to dump water over my head. There was something about the simplicity of the whole thing that was comforting. I hadn’t used a bath to actually wash since about age eight. Baths were a leisure activity, for soaking in hot water with salts. But with limited water, running a shower for any more than a minute and a half would use more water than a full tub. So I washed in the tub. And then Claire washed in the tub, in the same water I used, just a little soapier and not so hot. And then we put it all into buckets and used it to flush our toilet and water the plumeria trees outside. And as we drove away on the thistle filled dirt road, I looked back at the old house and considered the way I was accustomed to living and if I wanted to make what I was accustomed to doing into what I would do for the rest of my life. If I do, I’ll be using a lot more water than Barbara does.
            The house in town is fully on the grid, but because we’re essentially taking a freebie from Barbara for living there and the utilities, I’m more conscious than ever about what and how much I’m using. At the end of the day, we’re not paying her any rent, but every shower we take, light we turn on, load of laundry we do, and phone charger we plug in, she pays for. So I’ve made how I use resources shorter, less frequent and more efficient. I guess where I’m going with this whole thing is that how we consume is totally altered when A. you start paying for it B. there is a tangible limit C. someone is gifting it to you.
            When I tell people I’m in Hawaii, they immediately assume beautiful beaches and sunsets, ocean side pools, drinks with umbrellas, sundresses and unlimited beach days. It is beautiful and I have been to the beach, but for the people who live and work here (and for those of us who join in) paradise still requires maintenance. We work in an office from 7:45am to 4:30pm Monday through Friday and we are just volunteers. Everything in Hawaii is more expensive than the mainland and to get a solid public education is much more difficult. Barbara owns her land in the country, but she also hauls her own water and has to go to a separate pump in order to get anything that is safe to drink. Hawaii is beautiful, but being here has reminded me how grateful I am to have grown up drinking tap water that never ran out because my parents paid the bill.
            Barbara doesn’t like Thanksgiving because of the gluttony and indulgence that the holiday has come to represent. I’ve never liked Thanksgiving that much because I find it boring. But in the true spirit of giving thanks, tomorrow I’ll be grateful for what I’ve been given, including the ability to work for what I need, independently. I am grateful for the family that provided for me, taught me to provide for myself, and always provides love. A common plight associated with the liberal, middle class, young, educated, and self-aware individual is the oppressive guilt they feel about the privileges they have. I understand that guilt, been there homie. But something else that I’m beginning to understand is that feeling guilty isn’t really what should take priority. So you have clean drinking water and a healthy sized pantry? Be grateful for it. And be considerate. Use only what you need and be grateful that it has been provided for you. Don’t get bitter about it, don’t get angry with your peers because they don’t understand your struggle against your privileged up bringing and lifestyle and that you’re sensitive and you feel the plight of the third world. Don’t be snotty about a quality of life that most people are striving for. Be grateful and gracious. Appreciate what you have, use it wisely, and then make an effort to give back. Volunteer, travel, teach, learn, strive to understand what makes your lifestyle different from the people you meet, and then, do something about it. 

Monday, November 12, 2012

On the Big


On Thursday, November 1st, Claire Fahrner and I hugged a bunch of wonderful farm misfits and caught a flight with Pacific Wings to the Big Island of Hawaii. Our plane was of the “commuter variety” which meant that the pilots checked us in, loaded our luggage, and then walked us across the asphalt to seat passengers individually. All 10 of us. They had to seat us very specifically so as the tiny flight contraption would be balanced. The plane was equal in size to a large SUV, and Claire and I scored the seats directly behind the pilots so we got to watch the little lights and fear for our lives every time something beeped. But it was beautiful. The sun had gone down and the island was lit up, with the horizon still warm. The plane was tiny, the farmily wonderful, and the Big Island a complete mystery and gamble, but sitting behind the pilots was one of those moments that reaffirms how extraordinary being independent can feel.
            For those adults who’ve been adults for a long time, you’ve probably kind of forgotten this exact feeling. And for anyone under 18, you may think you’re there, but you haven’t quite felt it yet. Its not pessimism or optimism, its simply an affirmation that you’re alive. We planned our trip one way and it went another. So we connected with our friends back home, made a phone call, used our savings from summer jobs and bought plane tickets to an island we know nothing about to live and work with a woman we’d never met. And it’s not that we really needed to get off the farm, it’s that we could. We could be headed straight for disaster, but it didn’t scare us because in that moment, no matter what happened, we had ourselves there, gotten that far, saved that money, and made that decision. When you first start growing up it’s like being a little again. You make something, and it could be the worst, ugliest, stupidest, most utterly useless thing ever, but you don’t care one bit. Because you made it. And you did it all by yourself.
            Lucky for us, our big kid decisions and plane tickets did not lead us into disaster. They just led us to awesome. Our unknown woman on the Big Island was Barbara Dalton: aunt to Jack Bastian, representative for the Governor of Hawaii, Neil Abercrombie, self-aware intellectual, and last but not least, our gracious, hilarious, and extremely generous host. At the beginning of our trip, when Claire and I were debating the best way to flee from the Dragon Fruit farm and salvage our trip, we put out a plea on Facebook for friends and family in Hawaii that we might be able to collect as contacts. Jack Bastian came through with an aunt and an email on the Big Island. We did a little networking after getting to the new farm, and worked out a little arrangement with Barbara, bought some tickets and now here we are.
            So, the Big Island. In a nice change of pace from farming, Claire and I are volunteering in the Office of the Governor in West Hawaii during the week. Amongst other things, we are involved in helping with the application and processing of state IDs for the citizens of Hawaii. This may sound boring but I’ve loved it. It means we get to meet with every kind of person you can imagine, hear their stories, hope they have their documents and help them get their ID card. I like the pace of the office, I’m enjoying having clean feet again, and I like the idea that I leave each day having helped someone in one way or another. The time we don’t spend in the office, we’re exploring Kona or basking in Barbara’s hospitality. Claire and I share a room in Barbara’s little house in town, for which we don’t pay rent or do slave labor. It’s just outside of town, just across the street from the ocean, and just what we want. We’ve been really, really lucky. One of the best things about travel is that sometimes you meet someone, and they let you put your life into theirs, and you’re reminded that people are good. 

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Commando! (late post...actual adventure occurred on October 30th...sorry!)



            The best adventures that you can have in Hawaii always involve bringing nothing and completely disregarding anything that says anything about "no trespassing". The commando hike started exactly like that. Plus a thunder storm. 
            The commando hike, similar to the romp, needs a leader who's done it before, and for this adventure, it was Chancee. We were instructed to wear swim suits that tied on, so we could tie our flip flops to our bodies when the time came. We hitched out there in groups, Claire-Pia-Everett and Chancee-Whitney-Drew. When team one arrived and stepped out of the pristine rental car that had so graciously picked us up, the weather just full on dumped on us. We took shelter in the bamboo forest that is adjacent to the start of the commando hike. The forest manages to be incredibly beautiful while also being haunting and eerie. Bamboo grows thick and close together, so upon entering the forest, you feel as if it's suddenly twilight. It's hard to see things move through the thick growths, and so you feel as if things are moving in the trees but you can't truly see them. Sounds get muffled and distorted; a river runs through the forest but you can't find it unless you can see it. The three of us walked deep into the forest, where the rain could barely even get through and the old growth trees creaked in the wind. I stood in between poles as thick as my arm, shivering in my suit as mosquitos picked at my exposed back. The forest shielded us from the rain, but it also blocked out any sounds from the road. We wouldn't know when the rest of our party arrived. So Everett went up to the road and Claire followed shortly after. I found myself alone in the trees. Everything creaked and spoke, and the whole forest blew together in the wind and I was alone but I felt surrounded. I let the eerie bubble effect take me completely...and then booked it to the road.
            We met up with hitch team two and then had a decision to make. The commando hike was low on the extreme danger scale, lower than the romp and cliff jumping, but only when the weather was dry. Much of the hike involved walking up a steep river bed, and people die doing the hike when it rains heavily and a flash flood washes them down the hill and smashes their bodies against the rocky banks. We decided we weren't afraid of rain and did it anyway. 
            Chancee led us over a metal fence that was decorated with signage telling us to stay out, and into a large pasture. We walked quietly because cows are actually very angry animals who will charge and try and kill you. After a time, the path gave way to just grass and then the grass gave way to mud. Whitney took a few steps and then screamed. I always think "SNAKE!" when people scream in the country, but that doesn't apply in Hawaii because there are no snakes, none. Turns out she had just sunk knee deep into the mud. Two steps later, we all sank with her. It felt like baby Jabba was hugging my legs. Smelled like it too. I dug out my flip flops and we tramped on barefoot. It was flow progress. It was 100 yards of thick, sticky mud, with cow pop thrown into the mix. Each step was a leap of faith, because you didn't know how far your leg would sink, or what sharp thing was waiting for you at the bottom of the mud. I've embraced mud a lot since I've been here, but having putrid mud creeping up my thigh still gave me the heebie jeebies a little. At the end of our 100 yard battle, we found ourselves at the very steep bank of the river. Covered in mud, stuck with thorns and laughing, we slid down the hill into the river.
            The majority of the commando hike is trekking up the river. We tied our shoes to our suits and started picking our way up. The river is slow and lazy and dotted with rocks, so you just hop your way from rock to rock. However, due to the recent/current storm that was raging, everything was the most slippery. Nearly broke my neck/knocked out my teeth a good number of times, all good though. After a good time working our way up the river, I heard voices echoing off the riverbed down stream from us. Commando company? Then we heard the calls. Bird calls and signal calls, so we called back. And then round the bend came what we eventually named, ‘The Clan’. It was a troupe of around 13 young men; all shirtless and in running shoes. The first one came up to us and said in a thick accent “commando traffic jam!”. Turns out they were a collection of Europeans who either worked or lived at hostel not far from our farm. We started moving up the river in a huge mass, The Clan slightly ahead of the farmily. We reached a place in the river where thick vines grew from bank to bank and walking through the water was impossible. So one by one we climbed up into the tangles and walked across a giant carpet of jungle vines that suspended us across the water. They grew close enough that it was just like a large woven bridge.
            After a significant portion of the hike is spent rock hopping and vine walking, it real action packed. The river widened into a large pool that we swam across and then climbed the small waterfall on the other side. After a few more vine walks, we reached the larger waterfall. Still had to climb this one. The Clan went first and made it up. And then Chancee went. The climb was straight up the water but the rocked closed in and narrowed towards the top, so it was recommended you wedge yourself between them like a door frame and then pull yourself up. Chancee got this far and then slipped. One of The Clan was close and reached out, grabbed her hand and hauled her up over the top. I vowed to do better. I got in the fall, the water making it hard to see and making me very cold. Got wedged in and then started to pull myself up. At this point I had a whole waterfall in my eyes and was just groping blindly on the rocks for hand holds. I got one hand in, and the other hand was groping blindly until it was grasped firmly by a large Irish man who hauled my ass up on the rock. Thanks mate.
            We waded up river a bit further until we reached the mouth of a cave. It wasn’t like the huge ocean caves we had seen. It was small and tight, the river running through it and the walls close and the ceiling short. At this point, I began a silent panic. One of my greatest fears is being in water in the pitch black. But this was the commando hike, it runs in a loop, so I wasn’t going back, and the cave was what was forward. We swam the first part, which was still well lit by the mouth, and then climbed up another waterfall into the small, tunnel part. Because our combined parties formed such a large group, all the daylight was blocked out of the narrow tunnel. On member of the Clan had a light he had used to guide us up the fall, but just as he turned to come into the little tunnel, it went out. Dead, right then. I could feel the walls on either side of me and see the water ahead. It was pools of water separated by little rock formation. I stepped into each pool, not knowing if it was so deep that I would sink or so shallow that I would hit myself on the rocks. The short swim or wade across the little pools to next oasis of dry rock was like a lifetime. I kept looking up hoping to see daylight, that the tiny tunnel packed full of bodies and rocks and slime and dark water was nearly over. It felt like an eternity, having to force myself to let my body enter each dark pool of water, every fiber of my being screaming at me to stay out and get out of the dark. And the finally, light. I scrambled out of there, through the rocky entrance and practically threw myself onto the path and then remembered to breathe. Does that count as conquering a fear…?
            The rest was simple and beautiful. The river had spread out and the banks were less steep, and we walked up the rocks until we reached a beautiful pool that was fed by the biggest waterfall yet. The Clan kept going up so that they could jump off the top, but the farmily was content to shed shoes and shorts and swim. The rain had stopped and after a brief swim and a few low jumps, we collected our things and started the walk back. This walk follows a trail that transitions into a dirt road that eventually leads to the highway. We were tired and cold, but adventures always leave me feeling fulfilled, like I achieved something worth achieving.
            Back on the road, a truck full of coconuts picked us up and we rode home in the rain, with coconuts in weird places, cold, wet, tired and grateful.


Farmily

Better late than never. Tried the frame thing, but in the end what counts is that I have a picture of each person...minus Jared
 Chris
 Whitney
 Chancee
 Alicia
 Drew
 Lee
 Uuly
 Everett 
The dorks